Monday, August 31, 2009

Church

Earlier started to tell about church in Healy but panicked and sent blog off before it went down. Then I wrote out the story later and.....sure enough. The internet quit and all was lost.
But it seems to be more durable tonight so here goes again.
The church is Healy has really good attendance. Most rentals - more than 90% - here are dry cabins. No running water (and out houses)
The church HAS running water AND washers and dryers. Community members attend very regularly AND they do their laundry and refill their water jugs while at church .

Evening drive into the park







The first 17 miles into the park, as far as Savage River, are paved two-lane highway. My friend, Marilyn and I drove into the park tonight to get pictures of the late autumn colors. The colors are already starting to fade and within a couple of weeks, the foliage will turn gray and brown, they say. We found MOOSE.

Jeep Safari, thyme, church & Bumbleberry pie

It's late autumn in the Denali. Did you know that you can remember you can remember the five species of Salmon easily ? I learned how today! Here goes! Hold up your hand. The thumb stands for CHUM salmon. The pointer finger stands for Sockeye (sock eye - get it??) the middle finger stands for KING Salmon. The ring finger is for SILVER Salmon (silver, gold rings) and the little finger is for Pink Salmon. Ha! Well, that sort of information may seem more important up here. The salmon run is very poor this year and there is concern for the bush families, the native Alaskans who depend on subsistence fishing. It will be a tough winter.
I'm holding Arctic thyme. I'll be bringing it home and using it in cooking! Speaking of cooking, I talked to Rose at Rose's cafe today and I will be making bumbleberry pie this winter. I'm looking forward to it. I practiced today at the cafe, eating some fresh out of her oven with a bit of vanilla ice cream and a cup of coffee. I believe I have it almost down pat now.

How did I get clear through that whole trip up the Stampede Trail in a jeep without thinking to actually take a picture of the jeep? It's been raining here lately and so today the 4-wheeling was terrific!! Our jeeps were MUDDY and fun. I drove - but I was afraid he would think I was an old lady. The others in our line of jeeps were in their 20's and 30's. So I didn't want to be the little old lady who held everybody up. I guess I wasn't. He yelled something while we were traversing a huge mud lake - it sounded like "DON'T! Stop!!"
So I didn't. I kept up my speed no matter what.
Well, that's NOT what he meant!
He meant - STOP!
oh well. I needn't have worried that he'd think I drove like an old lady.


See how beautiful the autumn is?

Just another mudhole - Great for driving!













Ok - I just love these pictures of me fly fishing. I just had to throw this one back in (no pun intended)


Sometimes I write in this blog and then the internet disappears. At those times, so does everything I've written, so I'm closing now.
See y'all soon. I'm flying home on the 18th and Laurie is picking me up at 5:30am
Love,
Barb



Saturday, August 29, 2009

fly fishing & fox

This is the fox we met as the bus pulled into the homestead tonight. There is a cat in the bushes. I'd meant to write about the cat earlier. He's a scrawny alley cat and I've wondered how he had survived until now. Tonight the only thing that saved him was our arrival. That fox had him almost - but when we pulled up the cat ran to us - and the fox skulked away.





This is me - flyfishing for the first time in my life. Our guide/trainer was wonderful and as soon as I get home, I'm purchasing a fly fishing outfit! It was wonderful. I did happen to catch two Arctic Grayling - but I preferred to just cast and reel in - it was a lovely feeling -
Now, honestly, I must tell you that we hike 1/2 mile into Fish Creek through tundra. It was definitely uphill both ways. We walked through bogs. That is - THEY walked through bogs. I sometimes got bogged down. Once the bog was so deep I thought it would go over the hip waders - but it didn't - What a hike! The bushes were taller than I've ever noticed and the bogs deeper - and colder!! When we got there originally to the fishing site, our guide pulled out a rifle and then set it away and brought a large handgun. I've never been fishing with an armed guide but I didn't mind the gun one bit! Please note the scenery. This is autumn and it's incredible.







I interviewed Don last night. I'm still thinking about our interview. I had planned to interview one of our cooks tonight but we missed connections.
I was late getting back from the train tonight. The 430 new guests didn't slow us down one bit - but the young male moose standing at the Visitor Center stopped traffic! I got a picture with my cell phone but it was awful - sorry - I forgot I had my camera in the backpack.
There's a new girl in town. Her name is Hanna Marie. She was born yesterday (but she didn't fall off a turnip truck!) She is the daughter of Chris and April and the baby sister of Leilah. She is beautiful



Friday, August 28, 2009

I'm finally getting this stuff! It's all crammed together but perhaps I can finesse it a bit soon. Also, the first pictures I upload come out at the bottom - so it's all backwards! The bear is so cute from the inside of our parks tour bus. Took this picture last Friday on my day off. The bears are in their hyperphagia stage - and they do LOVE blueberries. We found extremely fresh bear scat on our hike - and it looked like blueberry pie filling - Our guide had his bearspray and called out a lot. I liked that hike WITH a guide!!! This next picture was also taken last Friday - Mt. McKinley from the northeast view. That's Muldrow Glacier that you can see. It's 35 miles long. It's the route that the sourdoughs took in about 1913. The native Alaskan and gold miners up at Kantishna didn't want the rich, uppity mountaineers to be the first to summit Mt. McKinley, so gathered at a bar, they decided to ascend the mountain themselves. They had some doughnuts and some hot chocolate. They also took a 14 foot pole with them which they intended to set into the ice at the summit. They expected that it would be seen from Talkeetna so people would know they'd been up the mountain. It was much harder than they'd expected - but luck (and perhaps more) was with them. They summitted Mt. McKinley in 18 hours and all of them survived. Today, mountain climbers train all year, spend weeks ascending and this year four more died in the attempt.


This is another view of Mt. McKinley. See the road on the right? There's one road into the park - 90 miles long - unpaved and single lane. It's quite a ride.

Finally, below, I just wanted a picture of the tourist busses that were parked together near McKinley. I wish I'd taken more pictures of Eielson Center - but perhaps now with my new skills, I can be more picturesque with this blog!





It was a beautiful day for Mt. McKinley. I hope I find the pictures I took along our hike - this may actually be one of them.


8/26/09
Tomorrow April and Chris and Leilah will welcome another daughter to their family. It has been a long and difficult pregnancy and will be a relief to have mother and daughter do well!!

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Alpenglow

Tomorrow is my next day off so I sit here in the lobby - on the new leather couches in my jeans with socks and no shoes and my feet up on the ottoman - and a friend on the next couch. Ahh, life is good when the next day is a day off. I'll be up by 6am to go fly fishing. It'll be worth it. We'll be fishing for Arctic Grayling - catch and release only but I'll try to get pictures of fish. Then I'll have lunch at the lodge restaurant - and a glass of wine, I think - and then on to Wilderness Living and Dog Cart Adventures - a new vendor about which I know nothing - but I'll find out! Anything for the guests, you know. Everything I get to go on helps me with my job. And it's so much FUN. I'll do all of tomorrow alone since I don't have anyone with the same day off this week. That's ok. I find I really like just pleasing me. It's so easy!
Then in the evening, I'll be interviewing Don. I don't want to glamorize his story but I sure want to hear and tell it. So, he'll be the first man I've invited to my room - ha!I want him to be able to tell his story without worry about what others are hearing or what he chooses to say. He's willing to do that. Perhaps he needs to tell his story. I hope so. I've worried about him - The administration is pretty upset about two rescue efforts this summer for one kid. I believe he has spent a summer learning something important to his life. I wonder if we can unearth what it is. What a great day tomorrow will be.
Yup. Trying to add pictures - have so many great pictures but cannot post them. Perhaps Don will help me again tomorrow and I can remember how he does it next time - urgh!!!

OH! I almost sent this without talking about the Alpenglow. The Alpenglow is the pink color of the mountains and sky as the sun sets. It's incredibly beautiful and tonight was the first time it's just overtaken the evening sky. I'm trying to sit up long enough to see the Aurora Borealis (sp!) tonight too - it's very early this year - and they say the snow will be very early too.
Someday I'd like to spend the winter here too. Each season is so special - so lovely. Today the wild cranberry plants make the ground crimson red. The fireweed plants have turned a color crayon red too so the earth is lovely - in all new ways now.

Monday, August 24, 2009

FOUND

They are found, spent some time at the clinic - were very, very hungry and are HOME here with the rest of us. I don't know much more - except there is quite a bit of trouble - it's not looked upon lightly to go out and get lost and use up all that trooper and search time --- I hope they can keep their jobs until the end of the season.
I've hugged Don and let him know how happy I am that he is ok....more later - right now I think they're dazed and tired - and realizing that they're in trouble with the powers that be.
not by me.
I'm just so glad they made it!!!!!
Here's the blog I wrote last night when there was no internet.

It’s 7pm. Don and his friend are still missing. Planes are going over the area and searches are underway. They did call off the helicopters. Too bad of weather. The people at the front desk just want people to stop asking about the lost boys. My friend and I talked to a trooper who told us that their packs were found next to the river – the box lunches were there – uneaten. The tent poles were in the packs. Some other, more experienced hikers had met Don and his friend, Jackal – an oriental who also worked in the kitchen. The experienced hikers assured us that they had accompanied Don and partner to the bus – that they had successfully crossed the river and then re-crossed on the way home. The experienced hikers decided to camp for the night but Don and friend told them they needed to get back and continued on their way in spite of oncoming dark hours. It may be my imagination, but we are quiet here in the homestead tonight. There is not the laughter. Everything seems subdued. There’s a computer-generated notice on the front door and on the desk – advising that it is not permissible or appropriate for others to go searching for the lost pair – that already there are efforts being made by search and rescue teams and any others in the field will only further stress the rescue efforts.
I went ahead with my day off. A friend and I hiked – very briefly and then joined the covered wagon adventure with dinner at the bunkhouse. On the road we discovered bear tracks, again very, very fresh. I took pictures of the tracks. It continues rainy and chilly outside. There’s no internet but it feels better to talk about it and record it and remember and ask from prayers and hope. Then, if there is a bit of time with internet I’ll cut and paste this.
People talk about the 18 wolf packs that live here. Others talk about the bears. People at the front desk sit here and talk about tempers and fears and concerns that this is getting deadly serious. I fear for young kids who think that everything will be ok and set themselves up for horrific accidents.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Don

Blog 8.23.09
Don is the young man who helped me get the most recent pictures on my blog. He’s a really nice kid. Today he’s lost – again. He headed back out to the bus last Thursday – with a friend. They both work in the kitchen here at the homestead. Don was lost earlier in the year. I don’t remember if I wrote about it or not – the internet is down – of course and I can’t check what I’ve written. It’s Sunday. Don and his friend were due back by yesterday. They had asked to get a ride out on the Stampede Road as far as the trail – they were heading to the bus featured in the book, Into the Wild. Don and I had talked about the earlier problem – being lost – I didn’t think he’d get lost again – and he’s little better prepared than last time.
The kitchen manager is on the phone with the state troopers. Others have been in contact too. The general manager of the lodge is involved. A few hours ago the troopers began the search on 4-wheelers. Don is such a nice young man. He plans to return to community college after this season. He seemed embarrassed to tell me he’s in community college – I told him I work for a community college and really believe in the students who can get through their programs. Many of the folks here are terribly well educated. One of the bus driver guides works as a professor of Russian Lit at UCLA all winter but comes up each year because his heart requires the atmosphere up here. Many of the people I have met and work with carry at least one college degree – all are driven here by something that quickly gets in the blood. When Don and his friend left, they requested four box lunches from the dining room. Each of the therefore had four sandwiches, four pieces of fruit, four small bags of chips and four bottles of water. Don has a sleeping bag. It’s been as low as 25 degrees Farenheit during the nights. It’s raining today – it has been beautiful weather for the past three days – but a storm is approaching.
Even before the storm arrives, my friend Marilyn and I tried to hike this morning. It’s not terribly cold in the middle of the day – but it’s very, very wet. We decided to take a ride in her car instead and later today we’ll go on the covered wagon adventure (for tourists – but it’ll be fun and dry and interesting and we’ll have dinner in a bunkhouse)
If this gets to the internet today, prayers for Don and his friend would be in order. Thank you
I had planned to write about the hike I took with Shirley – a woman who works in housekeeping – whose responsibility is Buildings 10 & 11. She was very patient with me. She frequently stopped along the trail to check out the wildflowers – while I puffed and panted and caught up. We hiked the Alpine trail above Eielson Center. It was very, very steep. The hike was only 1.1 miles but we climbed more than 1,000 feet in that distance. The ranger said it was the equivalent of climbing 77 stories in a building. It was absolutely beautiful. I haven’t included the pictures – Don was going to help me do that.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Iditarod Champions, Christmas and snow in August

August 17, 2009
Yukon Quest & Iditerod Champion
There’s still no internet – but there’s cell coverage!
Today my job was to pick up a park ranger and two “mushers” at the train depot. The musher turned out to be Aliy Zirkle and her mother, Mickey. Aliy is a young lady who was a college student in 1998 when she decided she needed a big change. She came to Alaska and lived in a small town of 35 people – on a good day – living with an Athabascan family and their dogs. Aliy adopted six of their dogs and moved to a somewhat larger community – Two Rivers, somewhere east of Fairbanks. There she and her dogs lived and she began mushing in the winters because, as she said, in the winter in Alaska, you just tend to start looking for ways to get outside sometimes. She started with a snow machine but it was noisy and greasy and she didn’t like that. She did like the dogs. She says the way to make money in Alaska is certainly not to find a job – it’s to help construct something – that’s where the $$$ are – and so she hired out to do construction. On that job she met a man from Arkansas who also loved dogs and was mushing. They have married and now have 51 dogs – their life, livelihood and love is mushing. I was taking her and the ranger down south to Hurricane Ridge where we would meet the Princess train coming in from Whittier, north to Denali. The train would stop briefly at Hurricane and they would load on. I would transfer some papers I’d brought and receive an envelope from the onboard travel guides. Then, after depositing them on the train, I would simply drive back to Denali (about 50 miles of incredible scenery I never get used to) and they, being on the train, would go from car to car on the train and explain about Denali National Park and about dog mushing. I asked to listen and have them talk about their lives. Aliy will compete in her 10th Iditarod this coming March. She has won the Yukon Quest three times. Both are races of about 1,049 miles. The Yukon Quest is actually colder and more remote than the Iditarod which is more famous. Aliy and her husband, Allen Moore, train with their dogs as soon as there is snow each fall. The 51 dogs they currently have are descendents of those first six dogs that Aliy adopted. There are sponsors and events that keep them going all year long. I was touched by the heart that Aliy has for her dogs and she shared stories of the dogs and how they love to run, are sensitive even to the moods of the musher and are often more competitive than the human behind the sled. Aliy is a lovely, tall woman with determination which could only be explained by her story of living with her dogs and loving to mush during the winter – and feeling that there are far more dangerous things – and few things more beautiful or full of adventure.
I got a chance to talk with Aliy’s mom. Aliy came by her sense of adventure by parents who moved to Puerto Rico when she was small because a job waited there and they sensed adventure. After Puerto Rico with its diverse cultures and ethnicities, St. Louis, Missouri struck the girls as dull. Her mother always encouraged Aliy to do what her own heart led her toward – but Aliy used to write letters on the back of paper targets – Aliy was practicing with her gun and was taking bear safety classes for mushers. Her mother says she just tried not to think about it. Now Aliy’s sister has moved to Two Rivers to serve as kennel manager for Aliy. Aliy’s parents are building a cabin to live in near their two daughters – but for the summers only. This past winter they spent in Florida when they weren’t sailing through the Great Lakes and down the Atlantic.
I don’t think I’m telling this well. It was SO exciting to hear about the Yukon Quest from a real live woman who mushes it EVERY year!
I got an autographed postcard from Aliy and I told her I’d be writing about her in tonight’s blog. She shared her blog with me
www.SPKDogLog.com
I wish I could check into it – but of course, there’s no internet here – still.
It’s 10:30 and I’ll be back on the bus to work at 7:30 tomorrow morning. I have TWO days off this week. I’m planning some hiking and some tours – just need to keep planning till there’s a real plan. I got pictures of the train, Aliy and the rest of us. I hope I can post them when I post THIS
G’nite,
Love,
barb

Blog 8.19.09

I sit here listening to great Christmas music, looking at mistletoe and garlands AND a huge Christmas tree surrounded by gifts – because it’s almost August 25th! A few years ago, employees at Yellowstone National Park received an early snow and found themselves snowbound – unable to leave their living quarters – and created a Christmas then. Since then, each national park celebrates Christmas starting on August 21st. I have my secret person to whom I will be a secret Santa.
Not only THAT, but last night it SNOWED on Mt Healy – the trail I’ve planned to hike on Friday is covered in snow!
Autumn is nearly over here. Winter isn’t far off. Sometimes I can’t get warm. I keep the heat on in my room – it’s a relief to return to that at the end of each work day – but I would never leave the heat on at home – except for the woodstove –
Here, though – when it rains there is a very crisp wind attached (one that leaves snow on the nearby hillside!)
Back, though, to Aily and her mother, Mickey. Mickey has never seen interior Alaska in the “summertime” (not recognizing that we staff members do not equate this weather with summer but with late, late fall)
Mickey says she has driven the George Parks Highway – only in winter-when getting the dogs to the Iditarod – and there is only snow and ice in every direction. It is very green now and lovely. Aily and her husband generally take about 30 dogs to the Iditarod – a job which requires two pickups. One, the larger, is a Ford 450 Diesel. On the back flatbed of that truck, they’ve constructed a maze of dog homes, each with its own door and can carry 20 racing dogs. On the smaller pickup, a Ford 350, the can carry 10 more dogs. A luxury hotel in Anchorage sponsors their team and that involves, among other things, fencing off a large section of their parking lot for the dogs – an area directly beneath their suite’s windows – so that they can be in contact with the dogs. The other dogs? Too young, too old or just resting a while. One man from Michigan got in touch with Aily and offered to sponsor a particular dog he just fell in love with. He sends $1,000 each year just to cover any special needs that dog may have….and when the dog grew too old to race, Aily contacted that sponsor who gladly flew out, made acquaintance with the dog and adopted him – flew him home to live a retired life. He still sends Aily pictures of the retired dog having a dog’s life with him and his family.
Then there’s the hoopla of the Iditarod. There’s a classic START. TV cameras, reporters and thousands of people and many entrants who just want to be able to say they’ve participated in the Iditarod. So, there is a START (in downtown Anchorage) and now there is a “restart”! That used to be held later on the same day but now it’s actually on the NEXT day and not advertised. The teams meet AGAIN and actually START the race – without all the hoopla.
There’s absolutely no internet here. Oh well, who cares? It’s Christmas!!!! Because I’m sitting here in the living room typing, at least a dozen people have gotten excited – they think we have internet today – but I tell them I’m just typing into Word to process later – long looks. Even guests at the lodge are craving internet – not sure why it’s so totally gone but it sure is.
I found an incredible book, The Cruelest Miles. A guest put me onto it. It’s the story of the Diptheria Epidemic in Nome that the Iditarod remembers each year. It’s impossible to put down. I’ll want to be sharing that book when I get home – it’s so, so Alaska! There are so many things about Alaska that just defy description and are simply incredible. The book is factual and supported by footnotes and kept me up most of last night reading.
Oh my gosh! We have internet. I’ll see if I can upload this!

Friday, August 14, 2009

Isabelli Coal Mine







That's me on the right - showing you where the tire is. Coal is much lighter than dirt or gravel so they've added 1-1/2 foot to the sides of each truck and a tailgate to hold more coal per load. The power shovel I hope to upload next has a boom 1,000 feet long - the boom is as long as a football field.

Glacier Landing by Plane 8.11.09 - almost landed!











On August 11, I finally got a chance to catch the Glacier Landing flight. The picture on the right is of our flight into the glacier on Mt. McKinley as we tried to land. The picture to the left is of the Healy Coal Power Generator - it's not operating now but today I visited the coal mine and with a little luck, I'll upload some of the pictures I took on that trip in a minute. I believe everything will come up backwards - still learning, learning - very steep learning curve here. Thank heaven for young adults who help me......


Well, the pictures are up - I don't dare try to upload more. I did so this morning and then the internet went down - and all was lost. It's fall here. The wind is brisk. It freezes at night. The flowers that are at the edges of the boxes are wilting. The leaves are turning yellow and falling from trees.
Tomorrow I'm back on the train to greet passengers from Fairbanks and help expedite their stay at Denali - I love the train!!
Today I visited the coal mine - very interesting but I dare not wait longer or this blog will disappear in the next blow-by that stops internet. I tried to call my daughter but no phone service either.
All iswell here. How are you all?
love,
barb

Friday, August 7, 2009

No internet

Thanks, friends for even checking out this website. It has become a journal for me. We haven't had internet for quite a while but I've discovered this "bar" across the road - and when I can't get on internet, I write in WORD and then cut and paste. I am able to aremember so much more. As I look back, I realize how much I would have lost without this blog. Thank you for helping me with it. I am trying to find time to figure the picture thing. I have TWO days off this week -
perhaps it'll happen
I've posted the writings of the last few days.
Thanks for reading.
It's blue sky here today with big cumulous clouds. We had rain yesterday. The wind is from the north and this morning our sky is not smoky. That's great news - if it will hold - because the fire is due north of here.

Slightly R rated

Generally, I am loathe to use colloquial words to describe bodily functions. However, to remember and to tell this story, I'll do that. Hopefully, you'll better see this brief story. I know I'll remember it better because of how it was told.

Andrew is 6'6" and works with me and 8 others as an "outfitter". He is in his second season as "Outfitter" and has talked all season about In the Wild (can't find underline).
Last year he hiked to the abandoned bus featured in that book. He's been planning all summer to hike there again. He went earlier this week with a young couple, Betsy & Danny - who are celebrating their honeymoon with us this summer. They were married just before they picked several of us up from Anchorage Airport at the start of the season.
The three of them packed carefully and took off up the Stampede trail. Andrew says the river was up and he actually got nervous walking across it but they made it fine. They hiked along the trail. Andrew has a peculiar way to ward off bears. I tend to rely on my bear bell. Andrew yells out loudly and suddenly "Hey BEAR" at frequent intervals. (I find this somewhat disconcerting as I hike along trails - but I prefer to hike with whomever will hike with me - and he's a good hiking partner) He's sure his method is more effective. The brush was deep but the trail was clear. He had been yelling often but as they rounded a curve in the trail, they surprised a grizzly sleeping under a tree in the shade. Andrew was in front. He remembers simply seeing the bear's face, about 10 feet in front of him. He says all three immediately began a quick backward walk yelling to the bear to leave them alone. He says he was more scared than any prior time in his life. He told me he peed himself.
Blog August 5, 2009
Yesterday I met Rags Ragland at the hot dog shop – She works at The Magic Carpet Denali, a gift shop with the internet address www.TheUluShop.com - there, now I can find her again even if I lose this card which I have stashed in my wallet.
Rags was wearing a Hawaiian sundress. Yesterday was the warmest day I’ve seen here – somewhere between 75-80 degrees at mid-day. I was able to wear a short sleeved blouse without a vest – first time it’s been that warm.
Rags is the manager of a gift shop, a shop for the “locals”. Last year she worked as a seasonal park ranger. She waited too long to apply for that again this year. She lives up on the Stampede Trail, again the area made famous in Into the Wild. Rags’ sister is here in Denali for her fourth season. Her sister has 14 dogs now and their family mushes all winter. Rags takes pictures of Denali’s beauty – wildflowers - Bluebells and River Beauties that are prolific along roadways and back in the tundra. She mentions finding a huge butterfly while watching the flowers. Recently, she says, she can tell the moose are already in rut again. That would explain the pair we found this week who seemed, like teenagers, to be nose –to-nose discussing life and love. Rags’ favorite sighting recently, however, was a wood frog in the road. She says she stopped her car and got out to take pictures – followed the wood frog a ways into the tundra. The wood frog is indeed a unique sighting as it is the only amphibian able to survive in Denali. Other adventures and sightings Rags discussed with me involved hiking up Tattler Creek looking for and finding dinosaur tracks this summer. Her advice she’d like to share: “Get off the bus!” Breathe some open air. Be IN the tundra. That’s where they’ll start finding things.”
Rags talked about the people she is working with in the gift shop. I forgot to take notes but remember that a co-worker is also a pastry chef – others have various professions. Rags has a degree in Theology.
Last night we had a picnic up the road on the sideroad opposite Stampede Trail - at the beaver dam. We hiked after the picnic – but my bearspray is still with the pilot from Kantishna and I was nervous – too much brush for my comfort. We found three beaver lodges and the tundra was magnificent. With each step, the ground moves – like stepping on deep, deep mosses – the ground dips and rises with each footstep. Finally, we stopped hiking (yup, I was ready to get back to safe car!)
Wedrove several miles up Stampede Trail – It’s paved for a couple of miles, then gravel (with many large rocks) and then finally a b u m p y rocked road that eventually gave way to trail. I was so glad to be up there – it was beautiful. We found a female moose in robust health munching willows. She was 20 feet from the car and watched us briefly, then figured what could four women in a little Ford do to harm her? She continued to munch while we watched and heard each chewing. I am constantly amazed by the length and height of moose legs. It is as though the moose stands on four straight trees. Also, we could clearly see a huge plume of smoke, due north, that extended far into the sky. Sometimes we could see a pinkish glow at the groundlevel.
Tonight (9:30 p.m.)
Srdjan (from Serbia) is ok now. He’s been off work for a couple of hours. He has had a really bad cold. Today he complained that he felt just terrible. He speaks English real well with a heavy accent. Reading isn’t always real clear for him. That’s how he ended up taking Nyquil during his work day. He tells me tonight that he thinks he was hallucinating – he was SO tired. He’s better now.
The resort was covered in smoke all day. There are contingency plans in case the Parks Highway needs to be closed due to the fires. The guests from Fairbanks arrived a few hours early today – because they needed to get through before the road was closed. There were rumors of evacuations in Fairbanks – those rumors came from guests –I’ve heard nothing else. I think they were just rumors.
Everything was very dry. Helicopters scheduled to give tours have been drafted sometimes to fight fires – a young man just outside our lodge window began a demonstration of a baton routine – with both ends of the baton aflame. He stood and tossed the baton into the air. Very quickly, security and a few irate staff from registration closed that impromptu demonstration. A while later, suddenly it was raining!!!! Hooray!!!! People are soaked. I’m damp – but I’m hopeful this will help dampen the area and make things safer up here.

50 Years

August 3, 2009
Blog
I met a couple today from Dallas, Texas. They came here 50 years ago, as college students to celebrate the statehood of Alaska. They came back to celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary and the 50th year of statehood of Alaska. I was privileged to listen to a few of their stories – 50 years ago the roads were REALLY rough. In 1959, they went into a bar in a small town and met the governor of Alaska – he was real, real downhome and they enjoyed him – thinking at that time that here in Alaska it was evidently no big deal to be a governor – not many people here and certainly no women they could find. They took lots of slides (pictures in those days) and she remembers that when she walked from the grocery store back to their cabin she was followed one evening by a pack of wolves. We exchanged names and addresses. I want to talk with them some more. We’re going to call each other once I’m home and I’m going to interview them. They think it’s no big deal – and they say they don’t remember much but it was delightful to just listen to them remembering each little thing.
Another woman took my favorite trail today – Horseshoe Lake Trail – and I’d asked her to watch for “my” moose. I didn’t tell her anything more.
She returned to report that she certainly found “my” moose and she let me know that a half-grown calf was skittering along in the meadow – she barely saw the calf. GREAT! The moose calf and his mom are gone from Healy – but the moose and her baby here seem to still be all right – in spite of the grizzly there recently. Thank Heaven!
There are continuing wild fires here! Now there are more than 650 fires, having already burned more than two million acres. The largest fire is about 10 miles north of here. Word (gossip) is that there are only 300 firefighters out there and that some of those have been flown up from the Montana Hotshots. We can now see great plumes of smoke due north – this is the only fire that is still considered totally non-contained. The worst fire season was in 2004, when more than six million acres burned and there were more than 700 fires. Tomorrow the temperature will be up to 80 degrees, the hottest I’ve experienced since I’ve been here – and not good at all for firefighting. Today was clear and crisp – absolutely perfect weather here. The wind was blowing from the south. When the wind blows from the north it gets really murky here.
Today I worked from 12-9. Tomorrow I work from 8-5 and then I head off with my friend, Marilyn, to the Stampede Trail. That’s about 5 miles north of Healy – the trail made famous by Chris McCandless – written in a book by a Corvallis author – can’t remember his name right now – Into the Wild. We’re driving with a picnic dinner.
We’ve been given forms to nominate the co-worker who most exemplifies service as a Princess employee. That’s really hard. I finally decided to nominate Srdjan. He is 28 years old, from Serbia. This year he brought along his little brother. He tells us that in Serbia you can work very hard but you will never gain financial stability. He is a college student during the year. He holds two jobs here – one at Princess and one across the street at a gift shop. So he works 16-18 hours most days. He never shows up to work tired or grouchy and he never stops working. He also helps ANY member of the team who needs help. He has a heavy accent and he mentors several students from Serbia who are also working here. I watch him with the guests and he is very helpful, very concerned and makes things go smoother for the guests. He’s sincere. He’s also a delight to work with. Yup, I guess it’s him. I wonder if I can nominate more than one?

Sunday, August 2, 2009

in a bar

Well, here I am, sitting by myself in a bar in Alaska. The country music is very loud - and VERY "country" - I bought a "wine spritzer" because they don't happen to carry white zinfindel.
Oh yes, and they have wi-fi.
They've been here across the road from our "homestead" all summer but somehow I missed them. Now I MUST have wi-fi, though - even if it means sitting in a bar, near the pool table listenin' to country music and loud patrons and drinking a wine spritzer.

The trip to Kantishna was intriguing! We have large fires up here by now and we saw a line of fire the pilot said spanned 10-15 miles. She warned us that the clouds were heavy over the Alaska range so we flew at 9,000 feet. At one point it became rather bumpy. She explained that we had just traded 30mph tailwinds for 20mph headwinds. My friend and I got lots of pictures and had a good time. The smoke was so heavy in the cockpit just before we landed that I started to stew - but all was well. Kantishna is the end of the road at Denali Park - the road is 90 miles and we landed just past the end of the road and then hiked back to a restored log cabin that belonged to the man who originally helped create the Alaskan goldrush (somehow this music has blown his name out of my mind - or is that the spritzer?) We came down the mountain in a park shuttle bus - the last one for the day, accompanied only by our driver, a naturalist, and the director of Denali Education Center - what a trip. They answered our questions and then began to answer questions we didn't know how to ask. We learned about drunken forests, where to swim au naturelle in Wonder Lake, authors and artists who are currently hiding out in the park at some of the elegant lodges way inside - by Kantishna. I have two books I want to read a.s.a.p. Ordinary Wolves is one. That author is here now - and The Anatomy of Bumblebees. I'm still finishing up East of Eden and not anxious to get clear to the end. We found an absolutely beautiful female moose who was getting acquainted with a young male - never have I seen healthier, more lovely moose(s).
A mother grizzly ate blueberries (just like Blueberries for Sal!) while her twin cubs munched, scrabbled, tromped each other and wrestled.

Today, Sunday, I had a chance to read pages 1 and 4 of the newspaper. On page 4, a friend of Will's was featured. A battleship has been named for him. He threw himself over a grenade in Iraq and saved several other marines. Now a ship is named after him. How strange life gets. I remember begging Will to save MY life as he left on his third deployment - and I made sure he realized that the only thing that would save my life would be his safe return. He made it - barely. This last week his Marine duty came to a close and he is finally a civilian again after more than 7 years. I'm grateful for his service - and grateful for all the servicemen and women - and grateful forever that both my sons survived war. And I'm grateful and sorrowful for the family of a 22 year old corporal who saved his buddies.

I worry about the Willamette Valley and the heat you've been experiencing! I talked with Laurie tonight and she is watering my blueberries and roses. Up here it's been smoky and or windy and rainy. Today is just beautiful - about 70 degrees and balmy.
The fireweed has mostly died down. Everyone is noticing signs of fall. The hotel is completely booked full - 656 rooms!

I have two days off this next week and am planning how to spend them! Heading to the State Fair in Fairbanks - although, really - it's NOT the STATE Fair - they just call it that ?!!!!???
Alaska has TWO state fairs so people can get to them.

THANKS Martin for helping Carol & Merlin find this blog. I'm off now to check e-mail and pay bills for the first time in almost two weeks -
Good to sit here in this bar and visit with y'all.
Bye for now
love,
barb